Known as ‘Scotland in Miniature’, The Isle of Arran is said to be a condensed version of the best that Scotland has to offer, in terms of geology, landscape and amenities. It is also the seventh largest Scottish island nestled in the Firth of Clyde between Ayrshire and Kintyre. But we chose Arran as the destination for our Scottish Isle holiday primarily because it's the closest island to the mainland and therefore not too difficult to access without our car, as we were flying to Glasgow. So after a 9.5 hour journey by taxi, plane, train and ferry, we arrived, tired but eagerly anticipating the week. Our initial impressions of Arran had been formed by the magnificent mountains that become steadily more impressive as the ferry approached the island. Our second impressions were of the quietly bustling harbour and seafront at Brodick, the largest settlement on Arran, where we were to be based for the week. Now it was time to expand on those impressions with exciting experiences ...
The next morning we woke to light rain but, true to the vagaries of Scottish island weather, this was replaced with bright sunshine by the time our walking boots were on! Having consulted our 'Arran book of walks', we decided on the 6 mile round trip to Lamlash, further down the coast. The route wound its way up the lane behind our B&B, through woodland and forest areas adorned with bracken, heather and fungi in their autumn colours. A picnic 'with a view' en route kept energy levels going.
We approached Lamlash against the stunning backdrop of Holy Island (home to a Buddhist retreat), and, heading straight for the beach we put cameras into action. In between shots we beachcombed our way across the wide sweeping bay. But it wasn't long before we drifted in to the 'Drift Inn', conveniently situated on the beach, complete with commanding views over Holy Island. After bowls of hot lentil soup and warm baguettes, we turned back to Brodick, where we were treated to our first Arran sunset.
On the second day we discovered that the west coast of Arran is much less developed than the east, and the largest settlement is Blackwaterfoot, overlooking Drumadoon Bay. But everything is relative; Blackwaterfoot has a population of just 4500, and we probably saw around 10 of them! It also has a beach to die for, but please, not before taking photographic advantage of the amazing beach landscape! A couple of idyllic hours were spent on Blackwaterfoot beach with only seals, shells, seaweed, sand and rocks for company. It still rates as one of my favourite beaches in the UK, let alone Arran.
A hearty 'full Scottish' breakfast was called for on our third day, as we planned to climb up to Goatfell peak, a challenge taken up by many, and often the sole reason for visitors to the island. As forecast by the Beeb the sun was shining in a bright blue sky thereby removing all legitimate excuses not to attempt the 2886 ft ascent and 10.5 mile round trek. Confidently setting off at 10.00 am we agreed that getting to the 'treeline' would be a respectable milestone to reach, provisionally.
Once this had been achieved we pursued the long hard trail upwards across rocky outcrops, along a seemingly never-ending path of boulders rising into the distance for mile upon mile. We met a handful of walkers along the way, plus some French fashion victims, inappropriately dressed, out for a pose. We even posed ourselves, for a 'we did this together' photo, thanks to a fellow walker.
But as the final ascent came into view, so too did the realisation of what that entailed - some rock clambering! For me this meant serious doubt that I would reach the summit. Even more worryingly, would I be able to get down in an upright position! With patient reassurances and an ever-outstretched helping hand, I clambered up the steep uneven boulders and reached the summit, relieved, exhausted but exhilarated.
Panoramic views over Arran, Western Scotland, Northern Ireland, the Mull of Kintyre and the Western Isles surrounded us. The photo-opportunities were endless, however our time at the summit was cut short by me, due to nervous tension and the need to prove to myself that I could get back down the mountain in one piece! Clearly this was achieved, with the same helping hand that guided me up, and soon the worst stretch was behind us. However, the long slow seemingly endless descent down the winding rocky path tested our calves and knees to their limit! Back in Brodick we fell into the nearest eating house to recover, replenish and recognise our huge achievement. Later that evening, in the comfort of our B&B we re-traced our climb digitally on the Mac, and without further pain!
The following morning we awoke to a rainbow arching over Goatfell peak! Light showers once again quickly gave way to sun, and we were soon hot-footing it to Brodick Castle, dramatically situated on a shelf about the north side of Brodick Bay and under the shadow of Goatfell, which rises behind it. Brodick Castle can best be described as a strategically important defensive fortification from the 1200's to the 1600's with an 1800's stately home wrapped around it! The castle is set in 10 square miles of Brodick Country Park, maintained by the National Trust for Scotland and unique in being the only island Country Park in Britain. The park is full of wildlife, but it's especially known for it's red squirrels. Only we didn't see one!
Now, if you've read previous postings on this blog, you won't be at all surprised by this. But fair dues, we did meet the Laird of the castle! And one of his tartan-clad guides (over)-educated us on a tour of the 19th, 18th, 17th and 13th Century rooms, taking us back in time from the overly ornate Victorian, through elegant Regency, to the equally imposing beauty of medieval architecture and furnishings. After a 21st century cup of tea we retraced our steps back towards Brodick.
The day we chose to hire a car and drive the 56 miles of coast road around the island was the only day the dreicht weather stubbornly refused to change. But we didn't let that stop us, and resolutely set off northwards to Corrie, quoted as being the prettiest village on the island. It didn't let me down. As we drove through it we came across a typical tiny Arran harbour - harbouring a visiting Viking Ship for good measure! Beyond it a seal was being buffeted by strong waves as it sat on a rock looking out to sea. But as it was made of concrete it didn't bat a flipper (must have fooled countless tourists)!
As we continued northwards the scenery grew more dramatic with mountains rising steeply from the narrow road, their summits draped in low cloud! By the time we reached Lochranza on the north west coast the weather was deteriorating. Perhaps the most scenically attractive of Arran's villages, Lochranza is situated on the loch from which it takes it's name. Surrounded on three sides by hills and facing the imposing grey ruin of the castle placed dramatically on a shingle spit sticking into the Loch, not even rain could stop the photos!
Moving southwards down the west coast we were keen to spot the much-photographed 12 Apostle Cottages at Catacol, a pretty white gabled terrace built in 1863 to house returning villagers from North America to the island, after they had been driven away from Arran when deer became more lucrative to the economy than sheep! Continuing down the coast the weather deteriorated rapidly and all views disappeared into a murky mist, so we decided to head off eastwards cutting across the island along the 'String Road' towards Brodick. This would have been a pretty route had visibility been more than 10 metres! Following the edges of Machrie Moor we tentatively found our way back to Brodick.
We planned to so something special on our last full day in Arran, to head off through the pretty Glen Rosa Valley, just west of Goatfell. The sun came out, on cue, just as we set off, providing picture postcard scenery every step of the way. The landscape was stunning, the colours spectacular. With mountains to either side, the Rosa burn tumbled over rocks on its course through the valley, and an impressive waterfall cascaded down the mountain in front of us. It was just one photo opportunity after another. With the exception of an occasional walker, a couple of enthusiastic labradors and a solitary empty jeep parked in the centre of the valley, we had the whole of Glen Rosa to ourselves, all day. Even when a heavy cloud emptied it's contents over the valley, it didn't dampen our spirits, in fact if anything, it enhanced the spectacle of the massive waterfall that came crashing noisily down the mountain and into the burn, swelling and accelerating the flow of water. The down-pour was relatively short lived and we walked back through this delightful glen in a mixture of sun and the occasional light shower, accompanied by a rainbow!
Blustery and stormy weather on our last night had given way to a bright and breezy morning, so we guessed the ferries would be running after all! Once on board the Caledonian MacBrayne we looked back and watched Arran as it faded into the distant horizon, whilst reflecting on all the landscapes, activities and experiences the island had opened up to us.
The next morning we woke to light rain but, true to the vagaries of Scottish island weather, this was replaced with bright sunshine by the time our walking boots were on! Having consulted our 'Arran book of walks', we decided on the 6 mile round trip to Lamlash, further down the coast. The route wound its way up the lane behind our B&B, through woodland and forest areas adorned with bracken, heather and fungi in their autumn colours. A picnic 'with a view' en route kept energy levels going.
We approached Lamlash against the stunning backdrop of Holy Island (home to a Buddhist retreat), and, heading straight for the beach we put cameras into action. In between shots we beachcombed our way across the wide sweeping bay. But it wasn't long before we drifted in to the 'Drift Inn', conveniently situated on the beach, complete with commanding views over Holy Island. After bowls of hot lentil soup and warm baguettes, we turned back to Brodick, where we were treated to our first Arran sunset.
On the second day we discovered that the west coast of Arran is much less developed than the east, and the largest settlement is Blackwaterfoot, overlooking Drumadoon Bay. But everything is relative; Blackwaterfoot has a population of just 4500, and we probably saw around 10 of them! It also has a beach to die for, but please, not before taking photographic advantage of the amazing beach landscape! A couple of idyllic hours were spent on Blackwaterfoot beach with only seals, shells, seaweed, sand and rocks for company. It still rates as one of my favourite beaches in the UK, let alone Arran.
A hearty 'full Scottish' breakfast was called for on our third day, as we planned to climb up to Goatfell peak, a challenge taken up by many, and often the sole reason for visitors to the island. As forecast by the Beeb the sun was shining in a bright blue sky thereby removing all legitimate excuses not to attempt the 2886 ft ascent and 10.5 mile round trek. Confidently setting off at 10.00 am we agreed that getting to the 'treeline' would be a respectable milestone to reach, provisionally.
Once this had been achieved we pursued the long hard trail upwards across rocky outcrops, along a seemingly never-ending path of boulders rising into the distance for mile upon mile. We met a handful of walkers along the way, plus some French fashion victims, inappropriately dressed, out for a pose. We even posed ourselves, for a 'we did this together' photo, thanks to a fellow walker.
But as the final ascent came into view, so too did the realisation of what that entailed - some rock clambering! For me this meant serious doubt that I would reach the summit. Even more worryingly, would I be able to get down in an upright position! With patient reassurances and an ever-outstretched helping hand, I clambered up the steep uneven boulders and reached the summit, relieved, exhausted but exhilarated.
Panoramic views over Arran, Western Scotland, Northern Ireland, the Mull of Kintyre and the Western Isles surrounded us. The photo-opportunities were endless, however our time at the summit was cut short by me, due to nervous tension and the need to prove to myself that I could get back down the mountain in one piece! Clearly this was achieved, with the same helping hand that guided me up, and soon the worst stretch was behind us. However, the long slow seemingly endless descent down the winding rocky path tested our calves and knees to their limit! Back in Brodick we fell into the nearest eating house to recover, replenish and recognise our huge achievement. Later that evening, in the comfort of our B&B we re-traced our climb digitally on the Mac, and without further pain!
The following morning we awoke to a rainbow arching over Goatfell peak! Light showers once again quickly gave way to sun, and we were soon hot-footing it to Brodick Castle, dramatically situated on a shelf about the north side of Brodick Bay and under the shadow of Goatfell, which rises behind it. Brodick Castle can best be described as a strategically important defensive fortification from the 1200's to the 1600's with an 1800's stately home wrapped around it! The castle is set in 10 square miles of Brodick Country Park, maintained by the National Trust for Scotland and unique in being the only island Country Park in Britain. The park is full of wildlife, but it's especially known for it's red squirrels. Only we didn't see one!
Now, if you've read previous postings on this blog, you won't be at all surprised by this. But fair dues, we did meet the Laird of the castle! And one of his tartan-clad guides (over)-educated us on a tour of the 19th, 18th, 17th and 13th Century rooms, taking us back in time from the overly ornate Victorian, through elegant Regency, to the equally imposing beauty of medieval architecture and furnishings. After a 21st century cup of tea we retraced our steps back towards Brodick.
The day we chose to hire a car and drive the 56 miles of coast road around the island was the only day the dreicht weather stubbornly refused to change. But we didn't let that stop us, and resolutely set off northwards to Corrie, quoted as being the prettiest village on the island. It didn't let me down. As we drove through it we came across a typical tiny Arran harbour - harbouring a visiting Viking Ship for good measure! Beyond it a seal was being buffeted by strong waves as it sat on a rock looking out to sea. But as it was made of concrete it didn't bat a flipper (must have fooled countless tourists)!
As we continued northwards the scenery grew more dramatic with mountains rising steeply from the narrow road, their summits draped in low cloud! By the time we reached Lochranza on the north west coast the weather was deteriorating. Perhaps the most scenically attractive of Arran's villages, Lochranza is situated on the loch from which it takes it's name. Surrounded on three sides by hills and facing the imposing grey ruin of the castle placed dramatically on a shingle spit sticking into the Loch, not even rain could stop the photos!
Moving southwards down the west coast we were keen to spot the much-photographed 12 Apostle Cottages at Catacol, a pretty white gabled terrace built in 1863 to house returning villagers from North America to the island, after they had been driven away from Arran when deer became more lucrative to the economy than sheep! Continuing down the coast the weather deteriorated rapidly and all views disappeared into a murky mist, so we decided to head off eastwards cutting across the island along the 'String Road' towards Brodick. This would have been a pretty route had visibility been more than 10 metres! Following the edges of Machrie Moor we tentatively found our way back to Brodick.
We planned to so something special on our last full day in Arran, to head off through the pretty Glen Rosa Valley, just west of Goatfell. The sun came out, on cue, just as we set off, providing picture postcard scenery every step of the way. The landscape was stunning, the colours spectacular. With mountains to either side, the Rosa burn tumbled over rocks on its course through the valley, and an impressive waterfall cascaded down the mountain in front of us. It was just one photo opportunity after another. With the exception of an occasional walker, a couple of enthusiastic labradors and a solitary empty jeep parked in the centre of the valley, we had the whole of Glen Rosa to ourselves, all day. Even when a heavy cloud emptied it's contents over the valley, it didn't dampen our spirits, in fact if anything, it enhanced the spectacle of the massive waterfall that came crashing noisily down the mountain and into the burn, swelling and accelerating the flow of water. The down-pour was relatively short lived and we walked back through this delightful glen in a mixture of sun and the occasional light shower, accompanied by a rainbow!
Blustery and stormy weather on our last night had given way to a bright and breezy morning, so we guessed the ferries would be running after all! Once on board the Caledonian MacBrayne we looked back and watched Arran as it faded into the distant horizon, whilst reflecting on all the landscapes, activities and experiences the island had opened up to us.
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